Time Out Magazine Reviews Esquire
Ever been to a restaurant where they show you an iPad video of your lunch being killed? Welcome to Esquire. It’s certainly an interesting approach to encouraging ike jime – or brain spiking – as a fish-killing practice. Especially when you see the fish thrashing, having fish-spasms and getting as close to screaming as a coral trout can. But boy, is it delicious when it comes out.
Chef Ryan Squires isn’t afraid to push the envelope. In fact, he starts the meal off with one: it’s filled with two pieces of air-dried beef sandwiching a sort of kimchi crisp with the sweet burn of candied ginger, dotted with avocado cream. It’s like a fancy, Korean-inspired version of a Double Down.